Feeling Wimpy

Dear Nan,

I’m laying on the floor, on my Turkish towel, in “my” Irish art studio, trying to catch a sunbeam, which wavers and hasn’t held long enough to give me any warmth-

I’m drinking a hot tea, so hopefully that will help the chill.

Nana, I feel wimpy.

Like I want to cry, or go back to bed…even tho I feel like I only just got up. I couldn’t fall asleep until after 3am, and I didn’t fully wake up until noon.

I showered then plucked my facial hair, clipped my toenails, got dressed…

I heated some leftover pizza on the stove, but took it out of the pan too soon + ate it half cold in the shared living room of the flat… {which is a jumbled mess, I counted 3 vacuum cleaners amongst the furniture}

Drawings compliments of my dear friend & terrific artist < Mary Naylor

The kitchen is not ideal either- gross old sponge, a few drops of dishsoap, a tub full of dirty dishwater in the sink…

All of it will feel better when I get a clean sponge and dishsoap…I have to get comfortable cooking in there- I can’t afford to eat out much and—-

Well, that being said, I left the studio and am now having coffee in a warm cafe, an Americano + an orange almond muffin-type baked good…I figured a walk around would do me good, but god I can barely sit upright, my body is collapsing- I’m exhausted and need to rest.

There’s so much I want to do here…and so many things I am behind on posting about…

I can’t share everything- I just can’t, it’s too much.

Why the compulsive need to share? I think I had it before social media, that’s just added a new layer—

I’ve tried so many times to Travelogue…but each time, I fall behind, then am overwhelmed, can barely keep up with the demands of traveling, and it drives me nuts to not tell every detail, so I just give up…and figure I’ll tell the story someday….

~~

I’m back in bed, finally, it’s almost midnight and I hope to fall asleep soon—

I feel good now, today was tough, but I pulled through!

After coffee, I did take a walk, found the water of which the town is named {Ballydehob in Gaelic is Béal Átha an Dá Chab, meaning “mouth of the ford of the two river mouths”}, and the 12-arch railway bridge {built in the 1880’s} which is a signature feature of the village.

I saw lots of moss, lichens + ferns, some sweet little pink + purple flowers…it was a nice walk, just enough. On the way, I took a photo of a flier in the window of a shop advertising a seaside and hedgerow foraging event I’d like to attend!

Drawings compliments of my dear friend & terrific artist < Mary Naylor


I stopped at the petrol station, got a new sponge, big bottle of Fairy dish soap, some local cheese, a courgette (zucchini), green olives and stopped at the healthy market for Finn crisps.

Went back to the flat, scrubbed the sink area, replaced the filthy sponge, and made a cute snack tray to bring next door to the studio…




When I got there, my studio neighbors asked me to go for a pint, and we went to Levis’ (pronounced Levisses) which is stinkin’ adorable inside, crammed with knickknacks + feels very homey. We sat and talked about art residencies and shared a bit about our respective art practices. After one pint, they went home and I went back to the studio.

My desk is cute and covered in art-making supplies…looking at it cheered me immensely. I even danced to some loud music and got excited to fill my space with life!

Arrival in Ballydehob

Dear Nan,

Oh my goodness, what a night…I’m on the bus now, so everything worked out, but I could not sleep AT ALL. The bed in the hostel was less like a mattress, and more like a brick wrapped in tissue…I don’t even know how to describe the flat sandbag of a pillow- But I felt safe and warm at least, and the other 3 bunkmates didn’t snore, so that’s nice!

I am SO looking forward to a shower, and fresh clothes, I’ve been wearing these since I left the States on Monday, today being Thursday. There was a shower in the hostel room, but I didn’t have a towel.

All in all, I’m still delighted I had the experience, something that sounded so cool to me when I was younger-

All part of my healing— to do things I couldn’t before…

The landscape out the window is getting more interesting, more trees, more hills, more lush, and because we’re on smaller roads, not the highway, it’s all closer and passing by more slowly…

~~

In “my” bed at Wies’ place, a type of hostel too, but MUCH better! I’m happy with my room, a long rectangle shape with a window at one end overlooking the Main Street of Ballydehob / Beál an Dá Cháb. One of the walls is covered in a zigzag design of wooden slats, very 70’s, with a built-in bookshelf filled with old books, from my initial scouring, all written by men.

Anyways! Nana! I made it here and it’s wonderful!

I went to Working Artists Studios / W.A.S. first, met the owners Marie & Paul and their son Dubhaltach (pronounced Dultah). They gave me a tour-

What a special place!

My studio is on the 3rd floor, along with another residency studio and two bathrooms. On the 2nd floor are Marie & Paul’s art studios, plus a kitchen. The first floor is a spacious gallery with large storefront windows. In the basement is a printmaking studio with a giant printing press. Outside in the back is Tailor’s Hall, which used to be where tailors of the village worked, and is now a performance space. Behind that is Dubhaltach’s sculpture / metalworking studio.

So much going on, and they are all lovely people!

I was brought two buildings down, introduced to Wies and given a tour of my lodgings. After putting down my things in my (also 3rd floor) bedroom, I walked to the health food market, ate a quiche with side salad, mint tea and bought a few groceries. Then back to my lodging for a hot bath + scrub, and a long nap.


Took my art making supplies to my studio, set up my desk, and met my residency neighbors, Carolin & Nikolas from Germany, artistic collaborators and a couple. They invited me to the pub, we had pints of Beamish stout and small glasses of Power whiskey with a drop of water in them. Great, easy conversation, laughing, kindness, and an unexpected comfort. They will have a car next week and offered so many things…

I’m too tired to write eloquently about anything else, it’s 3am…

An Unexpected Detour

Dear Nan,

I’m on the first of 2 buses, headed to Ballydehob-

I overslept this morning, so I didn’t make it to the Botanical Garden… When I pulled myself awake + looked at the time it was already12:08 and I had to catch the bus at 13:00!

So I just threw on my clothes from yesterday, grabbed my bags and stumbled out.

The host was sweet, didn’t charge me for late checkout, and called me a taxi. Luckily there was no traffic (like the anti-immigration protest blocking the road in and out of the airport the day before, our bus sat for 1.5 hours waiting) so I was able to get a hot chicken BAP, and some Euros from the ATM because my bus didn’t leave until 13:30.

I’ve dozed most of the ride, the view wasn’t that interesting from the highway at first…

~~

Nana! Miracles!

So. I arrived on the bus to Cork at about 17:00, hurried towards the bus station, (had to run back to the bus because I forgot my big suitcase under the hold) and discovered that I missed the last bus for Ballydehob, next one is tomorrow…I sat down for a moment, wifi wouldn’t work, so I walked to the nearest hotel. They said they were booked full, as was everything around, except for the Hotel Metropole which had 10 rooms available as of an hour ago. I started walking quickly that way, crossing a bridge over the river with my heavy backpack, shoulder bag, tote bag, dragging my suitcase…

My body welled with anxiety as I walked, thinking of the money I’d have to spend, basic hotels being 200$ nowadays at least…with no wifi I couldn’t call anyone back home for moral or financial support, nor search online for cheaper accommodations…

I got to the front of the Metropole Hotel and could tell it was much too pricey for me, (plus they’d likely need to put a hefty deposit on a card + I just don’t have that option available) so I was fretting….

A few doors up ahead I saw a sign for a pub, a giant Guinness in the sky, so I decided to calm down, have a beer and see if they had wifi…

The bartender reminded me of my childhood friend Tracy, I ordered a pint and as I was paying she commented on my luggage, asking if I had just now arrived? I began to answer, but my lip trembled, on the verge of tears while describing my predicament…

Right away she said she’d been in my position while traveling, she understood completely and would I be able to afford a hostel? Yes! She called one just down the block to see if they had any beds available. Could I afford 35 quid for a shared room? Yes! I ran down the block with just my backpack and shoulder bag, secured my spot, and now I’m back at the pub, drinking my beer, flooded with relief and feeling like Jess the bartender is a fucking angel.

Travel adventures of a solo-woman-artist!

There was a moment where I imagined myself sleeping at the bus station, I’m really glad it didn’t go that way.

~~

I’m at a Japanese restaurant down the block from the hostel, just ordered salmon nigiri, seabass + chives uramaki, shimeji mushroom tempura AND a hot sake…I’m so hungry all of a sudden…

I took my bags to the hostel, carried everything - including my 50 lb big suitcase up several short flights of steep stairs-





The room has 4 beds, 2 bunks, and when I came in there was a lump sleeping under the covers in one top bunk, and a queer/NB young person sitting up reading in the other. I was assigned a bottom bunk…

I saw the lump when she woke- I’m definitely 20 years older than both of them , that plus the stairs and big bags reminds me that I’m doing something most do when they’re younger, that I would have done when I was younger- and oh how happy, grateful I am that I’m doing it now while my body still can…




I ordered too much food + too much sake, but I’ll take my time, it’s incredibly delicious…and aesthetically beautiful…

After hauling my stuff up, I realized there were lockers on the ground floor- something I hadn’t thought to ask or look for because I’ve never stayed in a hostel like this before…

So I brought my big bag back down and put it in a large locker, so that I wouldn’t have to drag it half-asleep in the morning.

I can’t wait to get to Ballydehob tomorrow and be in one place for 27 days!

Turns out I didn’t order too much at all, I finished eveything…

I’m grateful I have a bed tonight-

I hope I sleep well there, it’s a bit awkward with the silence in the room, making any sound feels so intrusive….



Landed in Ireland!

Dear Nana,

Here we are! 34, 940 feet in the air, going 516 miles per hour, 2, 748 mi to go…DESTINATION: DUBLIN!!

This plane is full of Irish Nanas by the way, with adorable short haircuts, all smiles, and hands like yours…

I can see the waxing gibbous moon out the window, and a spit of land outlined by a faint string of lights along its shoreline…

We only left Boston a few minutes ago, and are skirting up Maine before we cut across the Atlantic.

It’s chilling to think of how deep those waters are, how many lives they’ve swallowed…Whole boats full…planes too, but let’s not mention that, let’s think of the marvelous radiolarians on the sea floor…microscopic, architectural, so intricately “designed” by the patient hand of evolution…

Ah and all that work has led to me, in this metal capsule, propelled by more of those beautiful designs (dino bones, fossil fuel), about to eat a meal served in plastic…

Did evolution give up when it got to us??

~~

Nana! I’m in Dublin, drinking a REAL Guiness in a REAL pub that’s been here since 1833, and I swear this table I’m at is original- worn down to a sliver of its former self, like a bar of soap…

It was quiet when I got to this spot, then in walked a group of lads, ordered 8 Guinness’, I can barely tell what language they’re speaking, not quite Irish, not quite English…

The bartender has eyebrows JUST like Grandpa’s…for some reason the sight of it made me teary…

This pub is too much, I feel like I’m in a movie…these guys even have a kid with them, a boy about eleven, haircut and future hoodlum attitude…

{imagine Little Chris, the kid brother in Lock, Stock & Two Smoking Barrels or Ashtray, the kid brother in Euphoria}

~~

I’m back at the same pub after a few hours of delicious napping in my bed at Egan’s Guesthouse… Just ordered prawns with smoked chili and garlic oil, plus garlic bread and a Guinness…

Every table here is full and everyone seems local, chatting, chatting, an indiscernible burble…I just hit record on my voice memos…something about the sounds in here made me start to tear up again, a feeling of being home…

I’m so full, but I just ordered a dessert + espresso — some type of cake-torte that had Nana in the name…

Oh it was delightful and now I’m properly STUFFED!

I feel happy + exhausted, woozy, buzzy, smiling to myself…

Ready to go back to my room, try to sleep despite the jet lag…

Tomorrow, I travel south to Ballydehob and my Artist Residency at Working Artist Studios!